When we talk about stem cells in skin care it conjures up images of lots of pipettes, microscopes and lab coats and altering the “mechanics” of the skin.
At BC we like to explore the truth and we are all about transparency. So, the big question we are asking is “do plant stem cells really stimulate human stem cell production?” Because many skin care companies claim they do.
This is what we know about plant stem cells…
Plant regeneration at the cellular and tissue level is a unique process. Like humans, the stem cells in plants have properties that help stimulate and regenerate plants after injury.
What is interesting however is that plants are equipped with a robust mechanism for regeneration of their tissues under stress. In humans, tissue regeneration occurs following a wound, resulting in the beginning of skin repair. By contrast, the regenerative efforts made by plants are not only for tissue repair from damage, but also for the development of a new plant. In other words, cutting the branch of a tree also results in a new bud/branch growth.
So, can we use this unique mechanism in plants for improving tissue regeneration in humans? “Eat an apple a day…But can it keep ageing away?” and all that.
You might want to grab a tea or coffee, here is where it gets a bit deep…
Way back in 1902, an Austrian botanist, Gottlieb Haberlandt wondered whether individual plant cells were able to regenerate an entire plant. It was not until 1958 it was finally done, by cloning a carrot from in vitro cultivated carrot cells. Plant stem cells became very interesting. It is a complex process, but it boils down to this:
Plant stem cells are adaptive. A protein in a plant can turn regular plant cells into stem cells. Magical!
Human cells on the other hand can change into specialized cells for various tissues in the body, such as heart muscles, skin tissues and liver tissues but that’s where it ends. However, in plants this process is more adaptable to establish stem cell niches in new locations. Little surprise that plant stem cells are very special, and they have piqued the interest of scientists worldwide.
But back to human skin…
Ageing of skin is a complex process involving all layers of the epidermis and dermis. It is ultimately a breakdown of proteins and reduced functioning of cells. The question therefore is “can plant phytohormones have the antioxidant and regenerative ability to prevent this aging process in human skin?”
Enter the beauty industry…
A significant challenge for any skin care company is to provide functional, trendy, innovative and safe products with a long shelf life. Most of us are not prepared to use human or animal products on our skin so most cosmetic research and development for new products is focused on biotechnology and plant cell culture. So, when plant stem cells sparked the interest of cosmetic chemists, they seemed to tick every box for the current market. It did not hurt that people knew “stem cell” research was something cutting-edge!
Here is what we know so far:
Plant stem cells in skin care is still in its infancy.
Stem Cells skin care is not about putting “live” stem cells into a cream to help you produce new stem cells, we are simply not there yet. Still hard to believe many companies are claiming this when it is simply not true. Unless a carrier system (liposome, tegosphere etc) capable of keeping live stem cells alive in a cream is created, live stem cells in cosmetics would be next to useless, they would die before the cream hit the market.
Most stem cells skin care lines use stem cell extracts, and while they do not stimulate human stem cell production there have been enough clinical studies to support the fact that they greatly improve the health of our own skin cells and do many other great things.
Increasing fibroblast activity
This is a definite plus in age-management as it helps the production of the vital proteins of collagen and elastin whose degradation is hugely responsible for the signs of skin ageing.
Increase in cell proliferation and growth
Again, a huge plus as the rate of this slows down dramatically as you get older.
Shallowing of lines and wrinkles
From approximately 8-15%, which may not sound a lot, but this is after only 4 weeks use. In the long term you could expect to see much more.
Anti-Collagenase and Anti-Hyaluronidase Activity
We know that Collagen and Hyaluronic are vital for healthy, youthful skin so a reduction in their breakdown is great news.
Antioxidant
Stem Cell Extracts have strong antioxidant properties, helping to prevent “free-radical” damage to healthy skin cells.
Nutrition
High concentrations of lipids, proteins, amino acids and phytoalexins (antimicrobial and often antioxidative substances).
Increase in the skin’s level of filaggrin proteins
A deficiency in this protein leads to dryness and problems with eczema. When the skin lacks this protein, its ability to shield against pollution and topical toxic substances is reduced.
Pevonia Stem Cells Phyto-Elite Line
We asked Christian Jurist, M.D., medical director of global education at Pevonia the burning question:
What stem cell extracts does Pevonia use and why do you believe they are the most effective?
There are certain, specific types of plant-derived stem cells that contain epigenetic factors like those of an adult human stem cell. Epigenetic factors are proteins that contain the necessary information to stimulate skin stem cells without altering DNA. These factors also preserve the stem cells’ multipotency (multiple differentiation) and ability to self-renew. The stem cells utilized in Pevonia products, for example, are derived from the Moroccan argan tree and Swiss comfrey root. Argan stem cells (not to be confused with argan oil) stimulate activity at the dermal level, increasing fibroblast production and improving connective tissue fibre support. Comfrey root stem cells work at the base of the epidermis to stimulate cellular activity and restructure the epidermis.
In general, the most effective stem cell products rely on the extraction of epigenetic factors. Nevertheless, the challenge has been to maintain compatibility and sustained benefits. Obviously, human stem cells’ epigenetic factor proteins are intrinsically more compatible in the skin, but non-human sources can also be beneficial if selected and applied appropriately. If the ingredients have the molecular makeup necessary for interaction, then a response will be executed in the skin. Pevonia uses dual action epigenetic factors from a combination of specific vegetal stem cells that are isolated, stabilized, encapsulated in liposomes and then delivered deep into target skin cells. Our formula also includes enzymes, peptides, growth factors and other components to maximize results.
A big misconception is that these products contain live stem cells. It’s simply impossible to formulate a topical product with living cells. Rather, all stem cell products— regardless of the source of those cells— contain derivatives of stem cells that can be maintained in a formula. In addition, many product lines claim the inclusion of stem cells, but unless they employ specific sources, select technologies and deep research to prove ingredients’ benefits, the formulations may simply not work. That’s why mainstream scepticism has been founded— and keeps growing.
