By Liane Scior
Director of Education

As a skin therapist, hyperpigmentation is one of the most frequent concerns clients will share with you. While it’s not typically harmful, it can have a profound impact on someone’s self-esteem. Whether it's a stubborn dark spot from an old pimple or an uneven mask-like patch from sun exposure, hyperpigmentation can feel overwhelming. But, by understanding the different types and their causes, you’ll be well-equipped to help your clients achieve a more radiant complexion.

Let’s dive deeper into the world of hyperpigmentation, exploring the key types and how to approach them in your practice.

1. Melasma: The Masked Intruder

Melasma often sneaks up on clients, especially women, and manifests as large, symmetrical brown or greyish patches across the face. This "mask of pregnancy" is primarily triggered by hormonal shifts – think pregnancy, birth control pills, or hormone replacement therapy. UV exposure can worsen it, but melasma is more than just a sun issue; it’s a hormonal response that often affects women with medium to darker skin tones.

How to Treat Melasma

Melasma can be frustrating to treat due to its deep-rooted nature, but it’s not impossible. First, stress the importance of daily broad-spectrum sunscreen—this cannot be emphasized enough! UV protection is the nemesis of melasma. Next, incorporate gentle exfoliation and skin-brightening ingredients like niacinamide, liquorice extract, or azelaic acid. While chemical peels and laser treatments can help, they need to be performed with caution, as overly aggressive treatments may trigger inflammation and make the pigmentation worse.

Consistency is key with melasma, and while complete eradication may be unrealistic, significant improvement is possible with time and diligence.

2. Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH): The Aftershock

Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation is like the dark shadow that lingers after an acne breakout or skin trauma. Clients with darker skin tones are especially prone to developing PIH after skin injuries, but anyone can be affected. These spots range in colour from pink or red (in lighter skin) to brown or even purple (in deeper skin tones).

How to Treat PIH

PIH usually fades on its own, but clients often want faster results. Topical treatments such as vitamin C (a potent antioxidant and brightening agent) and retinoids can work wonders over time by increasing cell turnover. For more advanced treatment, chemical peels with glycolic acid or microneedling can help speed up fading. However, make sure to treat with care—excessive irritation could trigger even more pigmentation.

Remind clients that patience is important. While they may want immediate results, hyperpigmentation, especially PIH, is a slow-fading process that requires a consistent skincare routine.

3. Sunspots (Lentigines): The Signs of Time in the Sun

Sunspots, also known as liver spots or age spots, are the tell-tale signs of prolonged UV exposure. These dark, flat patches often show up on areas of the body that have seen the most sun over the years—think face, hands, shoulders. Unlike melasma, sunspots are directly caused by sun damage and tend to appear as we age, especially on fairer skin tones.

How to Treat Sunspots

Sunspots respond well to treatments that target UV-induced damage. Azelaic, Vit C, retinol, and chemical exfoliants such as AHAs can help lighten these spots over time. For clients who want faster results, laser treatments or intense pulsed light (IPL) can break up the pigmentation effectively. As always, emphasize that sunscreen is non-negotiable! Even the best treatments will fall short if clients aren’t protecting their skin from further UV damage.

4. Freckles: The Friendly Face Sprinkles

Freckles are harmless little spots that often multiply after time in the sun. Unlike sunspots or melasma, freckles are largely genetic, formed in the dermis and appear in clusters, typically on fair-skinned individuals. They aren’t caused by damage, per se, but their appearance is exacerbated by UV exposure, making them more noticeable in the sunny months.

How to Treat Freckles

Freckles are often embraced, but some clients may want to tone them down. While laser treatments can help lighten freckles, complete removal is unlikely. Ingredients like retinoids or vitamin C can reduce their appearance, but it's important to manage clients’ expectations—freckles tend to bounce back with more sun exposure.

Helping Clients Navigate Their Hyperpigmentation Journey

When dealing with hyperpigmentation, a one-size-fits-all approach won’t work. Here’s how you can support your clients on their journey to even-toned skin:

1. Tailored Treatment Plans

Understanding the root cause of each type of hyperpigmentation is key to crafting personalised treatment plans. A mix of at-home skincare and in-clinic treatments is often the most effective route. Don’t be afraid to experiment with combinations of chemical peels, light therapies, and targeted topicals depending on your client’s unique skin needs.

2. Educate on Sun Protection

You already know that sunscreen is the foundation of any skin therapy regimen, but clients often underestimate its importance. Make sun protection a central theme of your consultations. Teach them about the role of broad-spectrum SPF and how reapplying every two hours, especially when outdoors, is crucial in preventing further pigmentation issues.

3. Manage Expectations & Encourage Patience

Hyperpigmentation takes time to treat. Whether it’s melasma, PIH, or sunspots, your clients need to know that results won’t come overnight. Set realistic timelines for improvement and explain the importance of consistent skincare routines.

In a nutshell, it’s a complex issue with no “quick fix,” but understanding its different forms allows you to offer your clients the best possible treatments. By tailoring therapies, educating them on the importance of sun protection, and setting realistic expectations, you’ll guide them to healthier, more radiant skin—and build their confidence along the way.

So, what are the best aesthetic device treatments for hyperpigmentation?

When it comes to treating hyperpigmentation, aesthetic devices have proven to be incredibly effective. While topical treatments can help, device-based therapies often deliver faster, more noticeable results by targeting pigmentation at deeper levels. Here’s a breakdown of some of the best aesthetic devices for treating hyperpigmentation:

1. Intense Pulsed Light (IPL)

IPL is one of the most popular and versatile treatments for hyperpigmentation, particularly for conditions like sunspots, age spots, and freckles. Unlike lasers, which use a single wavelength of light, IPL emits multiple wavelengths, making it effective for targeting pigment across different layers of the skin.

How it Works:

IPL uses light energy to heat and break down excess melanin in the skin. The body then gradually eliminates the pigment, leaving the skin clearer and more even toned.

Best For:

• Sunspots (Lentigines)
• Freckles
• Mild melasma
• Redness from rosacea or vascular issues (in addition to pigmentation)

Treatment Tips:

Ideal for fair to medium skin tones (darker skin types may be at risk for post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation).

Minimal downtime with a few days of redness or mild swelling.

Multiple sessions are usually required for optimal results.

2. Laser Treatments

Laser treatments are among the most powerful options for treating hyperpigmentation. There are two main categories of lasers commonly used: ablative and non-ablative. Ablative lasers remove layers of skin, while non-ablative lasers work beneath the surface.

a) Fractional Lasers (e.g., Fraxel)

Fractional lasers, such as Fraxel, target tiny areas of the skin in a grid-like pattern. This stimulates collagen production and promotes skin regeneration without damaging the surrounding tissue.

How it Works:

The laser creates controlled micro-injuries in the skin, which triggers the body’s natural healing response. As new skin forms, pigmentation becomes less noticeable.

Best For:

• Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH)
• Sunspots
• Mild melasma

Treatment Tips:

Suitable for most skin types, though darker skin requires caution.

Downtime varies depending on the intensity, from minimal redness to a week of peeling.

Multiple sessions may be needed for full results.

b) Q-Switched Lasers (e.g., PicoSure, Nd)

Q-Switched lasers deliver ultra-short bursts of energy to break up pigmentation. The PicoSure laser is known for being particularly effective in treating stubborn pigmentation like melasma with minimal damage to surrounding skin.

How it Works:

The high-energy pulses shatter the pigment particles, which are then absorbed and eliminated by the body’s immune system.

Best For:

• Melasma
• Sunspots
• Freckles
• Tattoo removal (also effective for PIH)

Treatment Tips:

Safe for darker skin types, as it causes less damage to the skin's surface.

Minimal downtime, though some redness or swelling may occur.

Fewer sessions required compared to other laser types.

3. Chemical Peels

While technically not a “device,” chemical peels are often performed alongside other aesthetic treatments to enhance results. They use acids like glycolic, salicylic, or trichloroacetic acid (TCA) to exfoliate the skin and promote the shedding of pigmented layers.

How it Works:

Peels remove the top layers of dead skin cells, revealing fresh skin underneath. This also helps break down excess melanin and improves cell turnover.

Best For:

• PIH
• Sunspots
• Melasma (in mild to moderate cases)
• Uneven skin tone

Treatment Tips:

Lighter peels (e.g., glycolic or salicylic acid) have minimal downtime but require multiple treatments.

Medium to deep peels (e.g., TCA) may have more visible peeling and longer downtime but offer more dramatic results.

Suitable for all skin types when done carefully, but deeper peels require more caution in darker skin tones to avoid PIH.

4. Microneedling with Radiofrequency (RF)

Microneedling with RF combines traditional microneedling (tiny needle pricks to stimulate collagen production) with radiofrequency energy to enhance skin rejuvenation. It’s highly effective for treating hyperpigmentation, particularly when combined with brightening, topical serums and sheet masks.

How it Works:

The needles create micro-injuries that prompt the skin to heal itself, while the RF energy boosts collagen production and further targets pigmentation.

Best For:

• PIH
• Melasma
• Sun damage
• Overall skin texture improvement

Treatment Tips:

Safe for all skin types, including darker tones.

Minimal downtime (a few days of redness).

Typically, 3-4 sessions spaced a few weeks apart are recommended.

5. Cryotherapy

Cryotherapy involves freezing specific areas of the skin to destroy pigmented cells. It’s a quick and effective way to target individual sunspots or lentigines.

How it Works:

Liquid nitrogen or other cryogenic agents are applied directly to the pigmented spot, causing the skin to peel and shed over time, taking the pigmentation with it.

Best For:

• Sunspots
• Age spots
• Small areas of pigmentation

Treatment Tips:

Best suited for lighter skin tones, as darker skin may be prone to hypopigmentation (loss of pigment).

Minimal downtime, but the treated area may crust and peel for a few days.

6. HydraFacial with Brightening Boosters

HydraFacial is a non-invasive treatment that combines cleansing, exfoliation, extraction, hydration, and antioxidant protection. When paired with brightening serums and masks, it can be a great option for addressing mild pigmentation issues.

How it Works:

The treatment uses a specialized device to deliver a combination of glycolic and salicylic acid, followed by a brightening serum that targets hyperpigmentation.

Best For:

• Mild PIH
• Dull skin with mild uneven tone
• Freckles or very superficial pigmentation

Treatment Tips:

No downtime, making it perfect for clients who want instant results.

Great for all skin types, including sensitive skin.

Choosing the Right Device

When selecting the best aesthetic treatment for hyperpigmentation, it’s crucial to consider:

Skin type: Some treatments are safer for darker skin tones, while others are more effective on lighter skin.

Type of pigmentation: Melasma, PIH, sunspots, and freckles each respond differently to various treatments.

Client expectations: Set realistic expectations, as hyperpigmentation often requires multiple sessions and diligent sun protection to achieve the desired results.

By combining these advanced aesthetic treatments with a consistent skincare routine, including sun protection, you can help your clients achieve radiant, even-toned skin.